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After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

• Select stationary power saws for making

traight or curved cuts.

• Discuss the proper operation of stationary

wer saws.

• Choose the most appropriate saw blade for a

iven operation.

• Maintain stationary power equipment.

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anti-kickback pawls

band saw

beveling

blade guard

blade guides

blade-raising device

chip load

crosscutting

dado

grinds

guidepost

gullet

handedness

hook angle

interior cut

miter cut

miter gauge

outside cut

overhead guard

plough

radial arm saw

relief cuts

resawing

rip fence

ripping

riving knife

saw trunnion

scoring blade

scroll saw

sliding table

splitter

stationary power-sawing

machines

stop

stop block

thrust bearing

tilting-arbor table saw

tilting device

U-shaped cut

Sawing with stationary power machines is the

most fundamental processing operation in cabinet-

making. Cabinetmakers use table saws, radial arm

saws, band saws, panel saws, and scroll saws to cut

wood and composite materials. Although sawing is

also an integral part of other cabinetmaking opera-

tions, such as joint making, this chapter focuses on

the challenges of sawing to size and shape.

Stationary power-sawing machines are designed

for either straight-line or curved-line cuts. However,

saws used to cut curves can also cut a straight line, if a

straightedge or fence is used. Selecting the proper saw

involves several decisions:

• Select the safest saw for the cut you want to

make.

• Choose an appropriate saw for the cut.

• Have prior instruction and experience with the

chine.

• If more than one saw is appropriate, choose the

ne that is most efficient.

Once you have chosen the machine, consider the

following suggestions for safe and efficient opera-

tion of the saw:

• With the switch off, disconnect the power and

ock out the machine before performing major

setup steps, such as changing blades and

setting the fence.

• Be sure the saw blade is clean and sharp.

• Install and adjust point-of-operation guards.

• Support material before and after the cut.

• Feed material into the saw properly.

• Ensure dust collection is operating.

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CHAPTER 23

and the saw blade is pulled through the material.

This makes it easier to cut long lumber into shorter

lengths.

Material may be too long or heavy to control

on some stationary saws. You could cut it to rough

size first with a portable circular saw. Full-size

sheets of plywood, particleboard, or other com-

posite materials are best cut on either a horizontal

or vertical panel saw. Table saws with accessories

that extend the capacity of the table may also be

used. Some of these accessories are discussed in

Chapter 38.

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A tilting-arbor table saw has either a left-tilting

arbor or a right-tilting arbor, depending on manufac-

turer and model. Some manufacturers make both.

The tilting-arbor table saw is also known as a table

saw, circular saw, or variety saw. It has the following

major components:

• Horizontal table on a machine frame.

• Circular blade that extends up through a table

ins

ert.

• Tilting arbor that adjusts the blade angle from

0° to

45°.

• Motor.

here are several features on a table saw. See

Figure 23-1. The bl

ade-raising device changes the

blade height. It is usually a handwheel. A tilting

device changes the blade angle. It is also usually a

handwheel. The tilt scale displays the blade angle.

Most blade-control handwheels have a lock knob to

prevent them from moving, once set.

The switch should be within easy reach at the

front of the table. On newer machines, the on switch

is often recessed into the switch plate. This prevents

the machine from accidentally being turned on if

someone bumps into the switch plate. The off switch

is above or next to the switch plate and may be larger

for ease of operation. Key-type switches can keep

inexperienced operators from running the machine,

assuming the key is removed and access to the key

is controlled.

Saw manufacturers may offer additional acces-

sories to complement their basic machines. Other

manufacturers, called aftermarket providers, offer

many accessories that may provide for greater

capacity, improved accuracy, and easier material

handling. Additional benefits of these accesso-

ries are improved safety, and increased efficiency.

Several aftermarket accessories are discussed in

Chapter 38.

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Problems with machine operations can be caused

by handedness. This refers to whether the user is left

or right-handed. In this book, right-handed setups

and operations are illustrated. A left-handed person

may follow them as shown, or reverse the setups.

However, some sawing operations should be set up

one way. An example is beveling with the table saw.

It is described later in the chapter.

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Sawing straight lines is a standard operation

for reducing stock to workpiece dimensions. Saw-

ing stock square (all corners are 90°) is essential to

produce high-quality products. Blade selection is

also important. You may be sawing solid wood or

composite materials, such as plywood or MDF pan-

els. The proper blade often depends on whether the

material has grain or not.

The most accurate straight-line sawing is done

on equipment having a circular saw blade. The

diameter of the blade helps keep the cut straight. Sta-

tionary power saws that use a circular blade include

the tilting-arbor table saw, tilting table saw, horizon-

tal and vertical panel saw, beam saw, and radial arm

saw. Other specialized stationary machines, such as

straight-line rip saws and cutoff saws, use circular

blades, but are not discussed here. The maximum

recommended blade diameter that can be installed is

determined by machine size. Blades vary from 8″ to

16″ (203mm to 406mm) or more, with 10″ (254mm)

being most common for table saws.

Material is guided past the blade on tilting-

arbor saws or tilting table saws. You must support

the material before and after the cut. The saw table

may be large enough to do the supporting. However,

for long stock or full sheets of manufactured panels,

obtain additional supports, such as table extensions,

rollers, sliding tables, or another person. The radial

arm saw has an advantage over table saws for sup-

porting stock. The material is placed on the table

372 Section 4 Machining Processes

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When using a table saw, the material must be

guided past the blade. A rip fence, miter gauge, slid-

ing table, or jigs and accessories are used to guide

the material.

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A r

ip fence guides material so it moves paral-

lel to the blade. It is typically in place when ripping

stock to width. The fence, on a guide bar or tubes,

is locked in place by a fence clamp. A scale may be

printed on or etched into the guide bar to help you

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 373

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Commercially available accessories include tenoning

jigs and sliding table attachments. Refer to Chapter 38.

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A blade guard is an essential accessory because

it keeps your hands away from the blade and helps

control sawdust. It may mount on the saw trunnion

or attach to the table edge.

A trunnion-mounted guard is bolted to the saw

trunnion, Figure 23-4. This is the main machine

set t

he fence. It may also be equipped with a digi-

tal readout device (DRO), Figure23-2. Make minor

djustments for the blade-to-fence distance before

clamping the fence.

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A mi

ter gauge controls the cutting of narrow

workpieces at angles other than parallel to the blade.

It is usually adjustable through a 120° swing. Depend-

ing on the manufacturer, a 0° or 90° setting positions

the gauge perpendicular to the blade for squaring

material to length. The miter gauge slides in table

slots that are found on either side of the blade. On

some machines, these are T-slots. The miter gauge

slide has a matching T shape. It can be inserted only

at the front edge of the table. The T-slot design keeps

the miter gauge from tipping or accidentally being

lifted out of the slot.

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To improve accuracy when cutting wider work-

ieces, select a saw with a sliding table or a sliding

table accessory. A sliding table provides easier han-

dling of large panels. See Figure23-3.

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If either the fence or miter gauge will not per-

orm an operation safely and accurately, you may

buy or build a jig to hold the workpiece and guide

the tool. User-made jigs must be sturdy and hold

the workpiece firmly. Make the jig of solid stock,

plywood, or fiberboard. It might clamp to the rip

fence or miter gauge. You can also attach wood

strips to the jig bottom so it slides in both table slots.

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374 Section 4 Machining Processes

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part that supports the motor and blade. When you

change the blade angle, the guard also tilts. The

assembly consists of the blade guard, splitter, and

anti-kickback pawls. The guard rests over the blade

and is hinged to the splitter. The splitter keeps

the saw kerf open as the cut is made. Without a

splitter, stock that warps during the cut could

squeeze against the blade and bind the saw. The

stock might then be thrown back toward you. With

a splitter-type guard, you must saw completely

through the material.

If the material binds, anti-kickback pawls,

attached to the splitter, should prevent the material

from being thrown back at the operator. The pawls

ride on top of the stock after it passes the blade. If

the material binds during the cut, the pawls dig in to

stop it from being kicked back.

If the material becomes difficult to feed, hold it

against the table with a push stick or by hand. With

your other hand, reach down and turn off the power.

Wait until the saw stops to remove the material.

An overhead guard attaches to the edge of

the saw table. See Figure 23-5. It is adjusted inde-

pen

dently of the blade. This type of guard may

be used with either a splitter or a riving knife. A

riving knife is a curved, steel plate mounted behind

the blade. The knife functions much like a splitter

except that it is not equipped with anti-kickback

pawls, Figure 23-6. Riving knives are preferable

cause they are less obtrusive and can remain in

place when cutting grooves. Riving knives must be

properly adjusted to function correctly. They should

be approximately 1/16″ (1.5mm) below the top of the

blade, and slightly thinner than the kerf.

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Circular saw blades are categorized by tooth

design, kerf width, arbor hole size, and other fea-

tures. The blade may also be categorized according

to the grain direction or material it cuts. For exam-

ple, a rip blade is designed to cut along the grain. A

crosscut blade is designed for cuts across the grain.

Combination blades do both. A more detailed dis-

cussion of blade design and selection is given later

in the chapter.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 375

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Saw setup includes deciding whether to use the

rip fence or miter gauge, setting the blade height,

and squaring the blade.

The following guidelines should help you decide

whether to use a rip fence or miter gauge.

As shown in Figure 23-8A, use the rip fence

en:

• The saw cut will be longer than the distance

om the blade to the fence.

• The workpiece will pass between the fence and

he blade. Hold and feed stock with push sticks

when the blade-to-fence distance is less than 4″

(100mm).

As shown in Figure23-8B, use the miter gauge

en:

• The saw cut is shorter than the length of the

aterial.

• The saw cut will be shorter than the distance

om the blade to the front edge of the table.

Use the rip fence and miter gauge only when:

• The blade height is less than the material thick-

ess. In this case, the material is not cut off.

This might occur when making certain joints,

Figure23-9. Refer to Chapter 37.

• The rip fence supports a stop block for sawing

uplicate parts of equal length. The stop block

provides clearance between the workpiece and

the fence to prevent the offcut from becoming

wedged between the blade and the fence.

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For cuts other than bevels, the blade must be at

90° t

o the table. Check the blade angle between saw

setups and after blade changes. Place a square on the

table and against the blade. See Figure 23-11. The

squa

re should rest between the teeth. Loosen the

arbor tilt lock and adjust the angle until the square

rests flush against the blade body. Tighten the arbor

tilt lock.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 377

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The table saw is capable of performing many

different operations. Those discussed here are rip-

ping, crosscutting, beveling, mitering, resawing,

and cutting dados. Other operations, discussed in

other chapters, include compound mitering, shap-

ing, tapering, and joint making.

3JQQJOH-VNCFS

Ripping i

s cutting lumber along the grain. See

Figure23-12. Install a carbide-tipped rip blade. Set

he blade height at least 1/4″–1/2″ (6mm–13mm)

above the material thickness. At least two teeth

should always be in contact with the wood. Unlock

and move the rip fence to the desired width. Mea-

sure from the fence to a tooth set toward the fence.

It is better to measure twice and saw once than to

measure once and need to saw twice. Finally, make

sure the blade guard and riving knife or splitter are

in place.

Stock to be ripped must have one flat face and

one straight edge. The face rests on the table and

the edge rides against the rip fence. Turn on the saw

and feed the wood past the blade. Hold it firmly

on the table and against the fence. Make sure long

lengths of material are supported. Stand to one side

of the cutting line. Keep your hands at least 3″–4″

(75mm–100mm) from the blade. For narrow stock,

use a push stick.

Remember that wood may warp while being

ripped. This happens because ripping relieves inter-

nal stresses. A splitter or riving knife is designed

to prevent sawn lumber from pinching the blade.

However, maintain a firm hold and be prepared

for kickback in case feeding the material becomes

difficult. Always stand to either the left or right

side of the material’s possible path so you are out

of harm’s way if it suddenly becomes a projectile.

Remember to always push the stock past the blade.

3JQQJOH1MZXPPE

Plywood, a stable manufactured product, is

ipped along the face grain like solid wood. See

Figure 23-13. Install and use a carbide-tipped rip

r combination blade. Set the blade height 1/4″–1/2″

(6mm–13mm) above the panel thickness. With the

guard and splitter in place, adjust the rip fence and

saw the plywood as if you were ripping solid stock.

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Crosscutting i

s sawing through the wood or ply-

wood across the face grain. See Figure23-14. Install

a ca

rbide-tipped crosscut blade. Set the blade height

so the entire carbide tip is 1/4″–1/2″ (6mm–13mm)

above the workpiece.

The material is typically guided with a miter

gauge positioned in the left table slot. This is the

normal cutting position for a right-handed person.

Mark the cut to be made. Hold the workpiece firmly

against the gauge with your left hand while feeding

with your right hand. With the saw off, align the cut-

ting line with the blade. Make sure the width of the

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378 Section 4 Machining Processes

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

blade is on the waste side of the cutting line. Pull the

workpiece back so it does not touch the blade. Start

the saw and feed the stock to make the cut.

The face of most miter gauges is about 6″

(150mm) wide and 2″–3″ (50mm–75mm) from the

blade. Many times this is not close enough to the

blade to support short parts. Fasten an auxiliary

wood face to the miter gauge that extends past the

blade. Attach abrasive paper to the wood face to help

grip the work. Short workpieces can then be easily

crosscut.

It is sometimes difficult to use a miter gauge

for crosscutting to length. If the workpiece width is

larger than the distance from the blade to the table

edge, use a radial arm saw, portable circular saw, or

panel saw.

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There are two methods for cutting a number of

orkpieces to equal lengths. Use a stop with either

the miter gauge or the rip fence.

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A st

op is at tac hed to the miter gauge, Figure23-15.

To adjust the stop, mark the desired length on the first

part to be cut. Align the mark with the saw blade, and

then butt the workpiece to the stop. Make a test cut

and adjust the stop position as needed. Sliding table

accessories may be equipped with an easily read scale

for positioning the stop, Figure 23-16A. This elimi-

ates measurement errors and provides for repeat-

ability in later operations. See Figure23-16B.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 379

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A st

op block may be clamped to or placed against

the rip fence. See Figure23-17A. A miter gauge and

ence should not be used together for cutting parts

to length. The cutoff portion of the workpiece can

bind between the blade and fence and possibly be

thrown back at the operator. A stop block provides

clearance. Use a 1″ (25 mm) block to provide ade-

quate clearance and to ease setting of the cutting

length using the rip scale. The cutting length is the

distance read on the rip scale less the thickness of

the stop block. Alternatively, the cutting length is the

distance from the block to a tooth on the blade set

toward the fence. Measure and set the cutting length

with the stop placed tightly against the fence beside

the blade, Figure23-17B. Reclamp the stop several

nches in front of the blade. Guide your work with

the miter gauge.

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Many applications use MDF, particleboard,

iberboard, and similar materials. The cores of these

composites lack a grain pattern.

Depending on the smoothness of cut required,

extra care may be necessary. MDF that is to be

painted with a high-gloss, opaque polyurethane

requires a smooth finish. Select a blade with teeth

that have an alternate top bevel grind. This type of

blade is discussed later in this chapter.

Panels with wood veneer will require the same

rip and crosscut considerations as solid stock. Set the

blade height so that the entire carbide tip is 1/4″–1/2″

(6mm–13mm) above the material thickness. Make a

test cut to determine if the material tears out on the

underside of the workpiece. Adjust the blade height

up or down to find the height at which the tearout

is minimized. Use the rip fence or miter gauge as for

sawing solid stock.

Many panel saws are equipped with scoring

blades to prevent tearout. A small diameter blade

prescores the underside of the material before the

main blade separates the panel.

#FWFMJOH

Beveling i

s sawing with the blade tilted. This is

typically done as a joint making or shaping opera-

tion. On most table saws, the blade tilts up to 45° in

one direction only. Some manufacturers build two

models of the same saw; one tilts to the left and the

other tilts to the right. For saws equipped with an

accurate tilt scale, set the angle with the scale. Oth-

erwise, the blade angle can be set with a T-bevel,

Figure 23-18, protractor, or triangle. Plan beveling

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380 Section 4 Machining Processes

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operations so the blade tilts away from the fence or

miter gauge. This will create cleaner cuts on the top

surface because the blade’s teeth will enter at what

will be the outside corner, leaving any chipping or

tearout for the inside corner. You want the waste to

remain on the table below the blade. If the table tilts

toward the miter gauge or fence, the offcut can fall

onto the moving blade and kick back.

With a bevel cut edge, workpiece dimensions

will differ on the top and bottom faces. Usually, the

longer of the two faces is dimensioned on the draw-

ing. It is difficult to set the rip fence or position the

workpiece accurately against the miter gauge for a

bevel. You should estimate the dimension and make

a test cut before making the final cut.

For ripping bevels, estimate the distance from

the blade to the fence. See Figure23-19A. Start a saw

erf no more than 1″ (25mm) into a test piece that

has been surfaced and squared. Measure the width

and make adjustments so the workpiece will be the

desired width.

For crosscut beveling, it is best to make test

kerfs on the waste side of your cutting line. See

Figure 23-19B. Reposition your work against the

iter gauge after each kerf until the cutting line

aligns with the blade. A clean backer board will

show the exact location of the cut and reduce tearout.

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Miter cuts a

re made with a miter gauge,

Figure 23-20. The blade is set square to the table.

djust the miter gauge to the required angle. For

sawing stock at angles up to 45°, install a crosscut

blade. For angles greater than 45°, a rip blade may

be more effective.

Workpieces tend to “creep” along the face of the

miter gauge when sawing. To prevent this, fasten an

abrasive-covered wood auxiliary fence to the miter

gauge.

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Resawing c

reates two or more thin pieces from

thicker wood on edge. This helps conserve wood.

For example, two 1/4″ (6mm) thick boards can be cut

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 381

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from 3/4″ (19mm) stock. Depending on the width

of the board, one or two passes may be required to

resaw with the table saw. If the material width is less

than the maximum blade height, resawing can be

done with one pass, Figure23-21. If the stock width is

reater than the maximum blade height, two passes

are required. Cut just over halfway through on the

first pass. See Figure23-22A. Turn the material over

th the same face against the fence. Separate the

two pieces with a second pass. Use the planer to

bring the workpieces to final dimension.

A traditional blade guard cannot be used during

the first pass of a two-pass resawing operation. A

trunnion-mounted guard will not allow the material

to feed past the splitter. An overhead guard would

also interfere. An alternative, side-mounted guard

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helps protect the operator. Make sure it does not

interfere with the operation. Keep your hands away

from the area around the blade by using push sticks.

See Figure23-22B.

382 Section 4 Machining Processes

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Narrow strips of wood are often used for inlay

ork. Always use push sticks when ripping material

less than 4″ (100mm) wide. Extremely narrow strips,

for example less than 1/2″ (13mm), present an even

greater challenge. It is difficult to guard the opera-

tion, and they are more prone to kickback. There are

two ways to rip these pieces. The first way requires

a zero-clearance throat plate and a sacrificial push

stick. The stock is ripped in the normal manner,

with the push stick backing up the cut at all times.

See Figure 23-23A. The zero-clearance throat plate

revents the stock from becoming wedged in the

throat opening. You can make your own or purchase

blank throat plates.

The second method avoids the issues noted

above by positioning the narrow strip on the offcut

side of the blade. A stop block is positioned before

the blade to obtain multiple strips of equal width.

See Figure 23-23B. The main disadvantage of this

ethod is that the fence must be readjusted with

each pass. However, traditional guards can be used

and there is no danger of the stock getting jammed

between the blade and the throat plate.

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Table saws can be equipped with a stacked set

f blades called a dado set. They consist of a left and

a right main blade, and a series of chipper blades

of varying thickness. By selecting different combi-

nations of chipper blades, grooves can be cut from

1/4″ to 13/16″ (6mm to 21mm) wide. When cut with

the grain, wide grooves are called ploughs. When

cut perpendicular to the grain, they are known as

dados. See Figure23-24.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 383

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On some circular saws, the table tilts instead

of the saw arbor. Multipurpose woodworking

machines (Chapter 38), modern imports, and some

older equipment may be equipped with a tilting

table. Most operations, with the exception of bev-

eling, work in the same way as on the tilting-arbor

table saw. When tilting the table for beveling, follow

these guidelines:

• Have the workpiece below the blade when using

he rip fence. See Figure23-25A. Prevent offcut

aterial from sliding into the blade. Another

person may need to help you with long stock.

• Have the workpiece above the blade when

sing the miter gauge. See Figure23-25B. The

ffcut will slide away from the blade after the

cut is complete.

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384 Section 4 Machining Processes

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Handling large and bulky materials is often

a problem for cabinetmakers. Panel products are

one example. They may be large, thin, and flexible,

or thick and heavy. Handling these materials may

require two people or a specialized vacuum lift. To

cut full-size sheets, most cabinetmakers use a panel

saw rather than a table saw.

Horizontal and vertical panel saws are avail-

able. See Figure23-26. The panel is supported by a

liding table. The material is fed into the blade by

moving the table forward. The disadvantage of slid-

ing panel saws is that they take up a great deal of

space. A vertical panel saw can be placed up against

a wall. The panel is placed in the frame and the saw

is pulled through the cut. See Figure23-27.

nother type of saw for cutting panels is known as

a beam saw, Figure23-28. Beam saws are usually found

n shops that process at least fifty sheets of material per

shift. Many beam saws can cut upward of six sheets at

one time. Material moves easily over a bed of air. The

panels are clamped in place, and the saw blades travel

along a guide system to make accurate cuts.

4DPSJOH#MBEFT

Regardless of the type of panel saw, scoring blades

are needed to create tear free cuts in panel materials.

A scoring blade is a small diameter blade designed

to precut, or score, the material before the main blade

cuts through the panel. Scoring blades are designed

to penetrate just through the face of the material, no

more than about 1/40″ (1 mm). Their cut is slightly

wider than the main blade. See Figure23-29.

3BEJBM"SN4BX

The radial arm saw was originally used for

sawing, surfacing, drilling, shaping, and sanding,

Figure 23-30. Most radial arm saws are now used

rimarily for sawing stock to length. Imagine trying

to crosscut a 12′ (3.66 m) long piece of lumber with a

table saw. This task is more easily done with a radial

arm saw.

The radial arm saw blade, blade guard, and

motor are above the table. All of these are mounted

on a yoke that moves forward and backward on an

arm. The arm swings both left and right for miter-

ing. The motor assembly can be tilted for bevels.

The entire frame can be mounted on legs or a bench.

Radial arm saws are sized according to blade diam-

eter, from 8″ to 16″ (203mm to 406mm), with 10″

(254mm) being the most common.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 385

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Change blades when the blade is dull or when

setting up for a different sawing operation. Radial

arm and table saws may use the same types of blades.

However, the radial arm saw has less tendency to

climb if the blade has a face hook angle of 5° or less.

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386 Section 4 Machining Processes

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To change the blade, first remove the guard.

Secure the motor arbor so you can loosen the arbor

nut. There may be a hex hole in the end of the shaft

for an Allen wrench. There could be two flat sur-

faces behind the blade for an open-end wrench. If

you do not see a method for holding the arbor, clamp

a hand screw to the blade above the teeth. Remove

the old blade and place the new blade with the teeth

pointed toward the fence. See Figure23-31.

nce the blade is installed, tighten the arbor nut

securely. Do not overtorque the nut. This could strip

the threads.

4BX4FUVQ

The versatility of the radial arm saw comes from

its wide range of adjustments. The elevation crank,

found on the column or machine frame, raises and

lowers the arm. This sets the blade height. The arm

pivots at the column to position the blade for miter

cuts. The yoke rotates on the arm to position the

blade parallel to the fence for ripping. The motor

pivots 90° within the yoke for beveling. A locking

mechanism is provided for each of these settings.

The only machine part that can move during saw

operation is the yoke. It slides back and forth on the

arm for crosscutting and mitering. This setting, too,

is locked for certain procedures, such as ripping.

With all of these adjustable features, the radial arm

saw must be frequently monitored to check that each

adjustment remains true.

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The radial arm saw is well suited for crosscut-

ing lumber and wood products. See Figure 23-32.

ck the arm in the 0° position. Lock the yoke pivot

and bevel at 0°. With your left hand or a clamp, hold

the material stationary against the fence away from

the cut.

With the machine off, pull the blade until it

touches the workpiece. Align the blade to the excess

side of the cutting mark. Then, back the blade off

and start the motor. Grip the handle. Pull the saw

across the material just far enough to complete the

cut. Then push the saw back through the kerf past

the fence. Turn the saw off and wait for the blade to

stop. Then remove the workpiece and offcut.

To determine the maximum material width you

can cut in a single pass, pull the saw out to its far-

thest travel and measure from the fence to the point

where the blade touches the table. This distance may

vary from 12″ to 24″ (305mm to 610mm).

If your saw is not equipped with a self-retracting

system, you will need to push the saw back against

the column. Retractor systems automatically return

the saw to its normal resting position next to the col-

umn when the operator finishes the cut. Do not let

go of the saw until it has returned to its resting point.

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Cut multiple parts to length by attaching a stop.

See

Figure23-33. Clamp it to the fence at the desired

istance from the blade. Place each workpiece

against the stop and make the cut. Turn the stop’s

adjusting screw to make minor changes in distance

to the blade. If you do not have a stop, you can clamp

a block of wood to the fence. See Figure23-34.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 387

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Material widths up to twice the saw’s travel dis-

ance can be cut. Attach a stop to the fence at the

desired length. Support the panel if it might tip. Cut

across the material as far as possible. Return the

blade to its column position. Turn the workpiece over

and finish the cut. Saws with 24″ (610mm) travel will

cut 48″ (1220mm) wide sheet material in two passes.

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Make miter cuts by rotating the saw arm to the

ight or left. See Figure23-35. Most saws pivot to 45°

oth ways. Right-hand miters (arm angled to right)

are preferred. The motor does not obstruct your

view of the cut. Install crosscut blades for miters. Cut

a test board first to make adjustments to measure-

ments and stops.

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By raising the blade above the table approxi-

ately 1/16″ to 1/8″ (1.5mm to 3mm), stock can be

kerfed for radius work. A series of grooves are cut in

close proximity to each other through solid stock or

panel material, making the material flexible and able

to bend to a tight radius. See Figure23-37.

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The radial arm saw motor and blade assembly

lts 45° left and right for beveling. See Figure23-38.

elect the proper blade for the operation you intend

to perform.

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Each different saw setting makes another kerf

rk in the saw table. This is because the saw

blade must be positioned at least 1/16″ (2mm)

below the table surface for through cuts. Over

time, the kerfs resulting from different settings

make the table rough. Resurface the table by

388 Section 4 Machining Processes

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placing a piece of 1/4″ (6mm) hardboard on it.

Screw or nail the hardboard to the saw table, away

from the blade’s travel.

After replacing a damaged table protector or fence,

you must recut saw kerfs. This must be done through

the fence and across the table for crosscutting. Later,

kerfs may be needed for miter and bevel settings.

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Stationary machines that cut curved parts

include the band saw and scroll saw. Both machines

have narrow blades that allow the saws to cut curves.

See Figure 23-39. Choose a band saw for cutting

rge radius curves and large cabinet components.

A scroll saw, with its smaller blade, is best for small

radii and intricate curves.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 389

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Relief cuts allow waste material to break

loose as you saw the workpiece. Each cut is made

through excess material almost to the cutting line.

See Figure 23-40. Both band saw and scroll saw

perations require relief cuts for making curves

when:

• There is a sharp inside or outside curve.

• The curve changes direction: left to right or

ight to left.

• Cabinet parts will be cut from large pieces of

tock. The excess material may be difficult to

control. Make relief cuts at least every 4″ to 6″

(100mm to 150mm).

When excess material is removed with relief

cuts, there is less chance the blade will twist or

break. With relief cuts, you do not need to pull the

workpiece back through a long, irregular kerf.

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A band saw is a very versatile machine. See

Figure 23-41. Besides making irregular curves and

rcs, it can rip, bevel, and resaw. Install a rip fence

or use a miter gauge for these operations. With the

appropriate jig, the band saw can cut complete circles.

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1SPDFEVSF

The band saw consists of a continuous, thin steel

blade that travels on two wheels. The blade is exposed

where it passes through the table, or point of opera-

tion. The table tilts for beveling. Blade guides posi-

tion and control the blade above and below the table.

The upper set of guides is on the guidepost above

your work. The guidepost is mounted to the upper

frame and typically includes a shroud to reduce the

exposure to the blade. The post adjusts for different

material thicknesses, is set 1/4″ (6mm) above the

material, and held by a lock knob.

Most band saws have two wheels. The bottom

wheel drives the blade. The top wheel turns freely and

can be adjusted to control blade tension and alignment.

Proper tension ensures the blade does not stray from

the line of cut. With correct alignment, the blade tracks

in the center of the wheels. The wheels have rubber

tires to prevent damage to the blade’s teeth.

The throat is the distance from the blade to the

side frame. Refer again to Figure23-41. This depth

etermines the widest cut that can be made. The

throat depth is usually determined by the diameter

of the wheels. See Figure 23-42A. There are band

ws that have three wheels. They offer a large throat

depth, but use smaller wheels. These machines are

noted by their frame shape.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 391

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Review your project plans when selecting

blades. Knowing the material and radii of curves to

be sawn helps you choose the proper blade. Select

blades according to width, length, tooth shape, blade

set, teeth per inch (TPI), and blade gauge (thickness).

These terms are discussed later in the chapter.

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Always plan your sawing sequence before

starting the band saw. Short cuts and relief cuts

should be made first. Then determine whether the

workpiece will be to the right or left of the saw

blade. Saw on the waste side of the cutting line to

allow for sanding.

Before making the cut, check your setup. Were all

adjustments made? Is the guard within 1/4″ (6mm)

of the workpiece? Are all locking devices secured?

How will you control your workpiece and waste

before and after the cut? Are you standing comfort-

ably in place? Is there a brake within reach to stop

the machine from coasting after it is turned off?

Large components are often difficult to cut. See

Figure23-45. The stock can strike the machine frame

s you move the workpiece from side to side to fol-

low the curve. If the frame interferes, slowly with-

draw the material through the kerf. Be careful not

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392 Section 4 Machining Processes

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to pull the blade forward from between the blade

guides. This could cause the blade to bind, come off

the wheels, and even break. More waste material

may need to be cut off to feed the workpiece without

hitting the frame. If the workpiece is too large for the

band saw, use a saber saw.

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The primary purpose of a band saw is to cut

urved parts. The cutting radius depends on blade

width and set. Refer again to Figure 23-39. Also,

ake relief cuts where the curve changes direction.

See Figure23-46.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 393

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

When changing direction during a cut, do not

push the workpiece against the side of the blade.

Anticipate turning your work before you need to

change the curve direction.

4USBJHIU-JOF4BXJOH

Ripping and crosscutting a straight line requires

a w

ay to guide your work. Attach a rip fence or

clamp a straightedge to the table to rip stock. You

will need to adjust the fence for blade drift. Drift

simply means that the blade is not cutting parallel

to the edge of the table. This is caused by several

factors including blade sharpness, tension, density

of material being cut, and blade tracking. To adjust

for drift, begin cutting your stock without a fence.

After several inches, stop the cut, holding the stock

in place while shutting off the machine. When the

blade comes to a complete stop, adjust the fence in

line with the stock. See Figure23-47A.

f your saw has a miter slot, use a miter gauge for

cross cuts. See Figure23-47B. To saw multiple parts

o length, attach a miter gauge stop rod or clamp a

stop block near the front of the table as you would

with a table saw.

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Narrow strips, 1/8″ to

1/2″ (3mm to 13mm)

wide, are often ripped for laminated wood products

or inlaying. Measure the desired dimension from

the fence to the blade. It is safer to cut strips with

the band saw than with the table or other saw. There

will also be less waste because the kerf is narrower.

Joint the edge before cutting. With a sharp blade

and well-tuned saw, the cut edge should be smooth

enough for gluing.

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In a U-

shaped cut, three sides of an opening

are sawn. The edges of the cutout may be straight

or curved. There may not be enough room for relief

cuts. Several alternatives include:

• Saw straight into the cutout on each side.

ithdraw the workpiece carefully after each

pass. Then cut a curve as small as your blade

size allows. Complete the cutout by sawing

away any remaining waste. See Figure23-48A.

• Drill two turn-around holes. These provide

oom in the corners for you to change the

workpiece direction without twisting the blade.

Clean up the corners with an extra cut or a file.

See Figure23-48B.

• If the inside corners of the pocket are curved as

art of the design, bore the holes with the

proper radius bit. Then saw the waste material

away. See Figure23-48C.

#FWFMJOH

Most band saw tables or heads tilt for bevel saw-

ng. For tilting tables, loosen the table tilt lock knob

and adjust the angle according to the tilt scale. See

Figure23-49. If there is no tilt scale, set the angle with

a T

-bevel. For a band saw with a tilting head, loosen

the bevel lock knob, turn the handwheel, and adjust

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394 Section 4 Machining Processes

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

the tilt angle to the bevel scale. See Figure23-50. The

scale may not be accurate, so verify the angle with a

T-bevel before proceeding.

Straight bevels can be ripped freehand or with a

fence or miter gauge. Feed workpieces for curved cuts

as you would if the table was flat. See Figure23-50B.

nce you begin the cut, continue in one direction

only. Otherwise you will cut a reverse bevel. Remem-

ber, the kerf made on the other face differs from the

cutting line you follow.

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Multiple parts can be cut to size in a single

peration. Stack and fasten workpieces together

with nails located away from the cutting line.

See Figure23-51. Make relief cuts on each side of

he nails and elsewhere as needed. Saw along the

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 395

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

cutting line. The last two cuts should be those that

free the parts from the nailed-together waste.

In addition, you can hold workpieces together

with two-sided tape. This prevents potential blade

damage caused by sawing through nails. However,

tape may not hold if the stock is warped.

For sawing duplicate workpieces with parallel

edges, such as chair rails, attach a round fence. See

Figure23-52. Saw the first workpiece to establish the

hape. Then secure the fence to the table a given dis-

tance from the blade. Hold the material against the

fence as you feed through the cut.

Patterns can be used with a round fence if the

curves are not too tight. The round fence is moved

to the blade, which sits in a pocket at the tip of the

fence. A pattern is attached to the stock. The pattern

rides against the fence, creating an exact duplicate of

the part desired.

3FTBXJOH

Resawing using a table saw was discussed ear-

ier. Another method is to use a band saw and an

auxiliary fence or a pivot block. The width of mate-

rial that can be resawn depends on how high the

upper guidepost rises. The blade has more of a ten-

dency to wander when the guidepost is raised high.

Resawing on the band saw is a one-pass process,

Figure 23-53. An auxiliary fence can be used or a

ivot block can be clamped away from the blade at a

distance equal to the desired material thickness. Mark

the resaw line on the material. If using a straight fence,

you will have to adjust for drift, as explained earlier.

Pivot blocks are quicker to set up, but a straight fence

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396 Section 4 Machining Processes

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is faster when resawing multiple pieces. Use a push

stick as you near the last 3″ (76mm) of the workpiece.

Make sure the stock is supported behind the blade.

4DSPMM4BX

The scroll saw cuts small radius curves. Its thin,

narrow blade saws intricate work, such as marque-

try and inlay. A scroll saw operates much like the

band saw. However, unlike a band saw, the scroll

saw will cut out pockets (interior openings).

4DSPMM4BX1BSUT

Scroll saw parts include a table, hold-down,

blade clamps, blower nozzle, and a guard. See

Figure 23-54. The table tilts to make bevel cuts. A

old-down keeps material from vibrating on the

table. It is attached to the machine frame or to a

guidepost. The blade, held by two clamps, cuts by

moving up and down. The lower chuck drives the

reciprocal motion of the blade. The upper chuck is

spring-loaded and retains blade tension. A blower

nozzle is attached to an air supply line. It blows away

chips so the cutting line remains visible.

The majority of scroll saws are rear-tension saws.

With rear-tension scroll saws, the entire overarm piv-

ots as the blade moves up and down. Blade tension

is adjusted at the rear of the machine. The advantage

of rear-tension saws is that the blade moves slightly

back from the workpiece. This helps prevent the

workpiece from jumping up and down. The hold-

down serves as a guard for rear tension scroll saws.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 397

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Scroll saw size is based on the distance from the

blade to the back of the overarm. This is called the

throat depth and may vary from 12″ to 24″ (305mm

to 610 mm). The throat depth limits the length of

material that can be cut.

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Blades for scroll saws are very narrow and so are

capable of sawing a small radius. The number of TPI

varies. A rule of thumb is to select blades that will

have three or more teeth in contact with the wood at

all times. This way, the edge next to the kerf will not

splinter as much.

• Variable. A v

ariable speed scroll saw adjusts

while the machine is running.

• Pulleys. A bel

t is tracked over opposing

step pulleys. Make sure that the switch is

off and power is disconnected while you

move the belt.

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There are two types of cuts made with the

scroll saw. One is around or through the work-

piece, typically called an outside cut. The other

is an interior cut for pocket cutouts. An example

of a pocket cutout would be a hole cut out of the

center of an object.

4DSPMM4BX4FUVQ

Preparing to use the scroll saw requires just a

few simple steps. For saws having a guidepost, raise

or lower the post so material can pass under the

hold-down. The scroll saw may have one of three

speed adjustments.

• Electronic. A spe

ed knob adjusts the speed,

which is displayed in a digital readout.

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Beveling on the scroll saw is done much like the

and saw operation. Tilt the table, and then adjust

the hold-down to the tilt angle, Figure23-55. Keep

he workpiece on the same side of the blade until the

cut is complete.

398 Section 4 Machining Processes

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The scroll saw is the only stationary saw capable

f cutting pockets with ease. Since the blade is not a

continuous loop, it can be threaded through a hole in

the workpiece. See Figure23-56.

Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 399

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Blades, regardless of the machine they are on,

are designed to cut efficiently and effectively. Select-

ing the proper blade is an important part of sawing.

Using the wrong blade may ruin the workpiece, dull

the blade prematurely, or result in extra work, such

as sanding. For example, crosscutting with a rip

blade creates problems. Rip teeth are larger and have

a different cutting angle that may cause the wood to

splinter.

The blade you choose depends on the sawing

operation. You may be sawing solid wood or ply-

wood across or along the grain. You could also be

cutting nongrain composites such as hardboard,

particleboard, or even plastic.

After making a cut, inspect the cut edges of the

workpiece. Look to see how rough or smooth they

are. Burn marks result from using a dull blade,

improperly adjusting the rip fence, or feeding stock

too slowly. Inspect the blade frequently to determine

how well it is performing.

Saw blade performance is based on tooth design

and chip load. Chip load is the thickness of a chip

that is removed by one cutting edge of the tool. In

the case of a saw blade, chip load depends on the:

• Number of teeth.

• Size of the gullet.

• Speed of the blade.

• Rate of feed.

ip load is a factor for all types and styles of

blades. If wood chips totally fill the gullet, the blade

will cut poorly. This is because there is no more room

in the blade to hold sawn chips. You can feed faster

with large gullet blades, but the sawn edge will be

rougher. Too much pressure when feeding causes

the blade to heat up due to increased friction. Excess

heat can remove the temper from a blade, causing it

to dull prematurely.

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Circular blades are used on table saws, radial

arm saws, power miter saws, and various stationary

power saws. Important blade specifications include

blade diameter, tooth design (hook angle, cutting

edge shape, and number of teeth), kerf width, and

the size of the arbor hole.

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Machines are made to use blades with a wide

ange of diameters. Machines are described in

terms of the maximum blade diameter installed in

the machine, such as a 10″ table saw or a 71/4″ por-

table circular saw. Smaller diameter blades reduce

the maximum depth of cut. Most 10″ (254mm)

blades mounted on a 10″ table saw will cut through

2″ (50mm) material at 45° and 3″ (75mm) material

at 90°.

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Hook angle re

fers to the angle at which the front

edge of the tooth contacts the material. This angle

is created between the face of the tooth and a line

that extends from the tooth tip to the arbor hole. Rip

blades may have a hook angle between 10° and 20°.

Blades designed for power miter, radial arm, and

other pendulum type saws generally have smaller

hook angles and may even have 0° or a negative

hook angle. A negative angle gives you greater con-

trol over the feed rate.

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There are various standard blade cutting edges.

he cutting edges are determined by the tooth

shape. The type of material and grain direction

through which a blade will cut is based on the tooth

shape. Teeth may be flat-top (square), bevel shaped,

or a combination of the two shapes. Some combina-

tion blades may have teeth shaped several ways. For

example, one tooth is square followed by several that

are beveled.

The cutting edge of carbide tips are ground to

various shapes, commonly referred to as grinds,

Figure 23-58. The most popular grinds and uses

re as follows:

• Flat-top (FT) grind. T

he blade has larger gullets,

fewer teeth, and will accept greater chip loads

for higher feed rates. See Figure23-58A.

xcellent for ripping solid wood when speed

is more important than cut quality.

• Alternate top bevel (ATB) grind. T

op bevel

shaped teeth sever the material with a shearing

action, alternating left and right. See

Figure23-58B. This grind is used for crosscut-

ing or a combination of crosscuts and rip cuts.

Blades of this design with a high number of

teeth will produce a higher quality of finish cut

in wood. Blades with a high bevel angle (30°)

are able to produce superior cuts on both sides

of thermofused melamine and HPDL panels.

Use blades with a negative hook angle for

improved control over feed rate.

• Alternate top bevel with raker grind. T

wo sets

of alternate left and right top bevel teeth are

followed by a raking action flat-top tooth with

large round gullet to ease chip removal. See

Figure23-58C. This is an excellent choice for a

com

bination blade.

• Triple-chip (TC). T

riple-chip teeth are beveled

on both sides with a small flat on the top edge.

Some blades alternate triple-edge teeth with

flat-top teeth for dual-action cutting. See

Figure23-58D. The triple-chip teeth remove

aterial from the center of the kerf, followed by

the flat-top raker to clean out remaining mate-

rial from both sides. Excellent results can be

achieved on plywood and plastics. They are

often used on power miter and radial arm

saws. Triple-chip blades with a negative hook

angle are preferred for cutting nonferrous

metal.

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The number of teeth is an important aspect of

lade design. The number does not distinguish a rip

blade from a crosscut or combination blade. Rather,

it suggests the performance of a blade when cutting

thin materials. Generally, a blade with a larger num-

ber of teeth will produce consistently smoother cuts.

When cutting stock on a table saw, adjust the blade

height so at least two teeth are always in the material.

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The width of the sawn kerf is generally larger on

rge diameter blades. This is due to the thicker plate

used for larger blade diameters. The standard kerf

for a 10″ (254mm) diameter blade is 1/8″ (3mm).

Thin kerf models have a 3/32″ (2mm) kerf design.

The thin kerf design makes stock feeding excep-

tionally smooth, easy, and fast. Smaller horsepower

machines can handle more work with less strain on

the motor and the operator. A common kerf for a 16″

(406mm) diameter blade is 11/64″ (4mm).

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 401

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The size of the arbor hole is generally larger on

lades with a larger diameter. Commonly referred

to as the bore, blades up to 10″ (254mm) in diameter

have a 5/8″ (16mm) bore. Larger blades, such as 12″,

14″, and 16″ (305mm, 356mm, and 406mm), have a

1″ (25mm) bore.

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Between each tooth is a gu

llet. It is where chips

accumulate as teeth cut through the material. The

chips absorb heat from the blade and are then

thrown out when the tooth exits the stock.

Circular blades are either flat, hollow ground,

or thin rim. See Figure23-59. Flat blades are set to

reate a wider saw kerf. The teeth are larger than the

blade to create a kerf slightly wider than the steel

plate. The kerf prevents the blade body from bind-

ing. A hollow ground blade leaves a smoother cut

edge on the workpiece. The thinner cross section of

the blade reduces binding. However, binding and

heating will occur if the blade is not raised at least

1″ (25 mm) above the stock. A thin rim (thin kerf)

blade creates the narrowest kerf and thus, conserves

material. However, heat buildup is a problem with

thicker material.

Most blades are designed with expansion

slots. See Figure23-60. These relieve heat stress in

he blade. A warm blade will warp and affect the

smoothness and width of the kerf. On carbide blades

over 12″ (254mm) in diameter, holes at the bottom of

the expansion slots are sometimes fitted with alumi-

num plugs. These help reduce noise and vibration,

resulting in a smoother cut.

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A band saw blade is an endless bonded loop of

thin narrow steel with teeth on one edge. Select band

saw blades according to various specifications. The

length of the loop is critical. While it is possible to

buy 100′–500′ (30.5 m–152 m) coils and cut and weld

together your own blades, most users buy blades

sized for their machine Your machine manual will

specify the correct length needed.

Blade width is important. It may vary from 1/8″

to 1″ (3mm to 25mm) or wider. Blades 1/8″–1/2″

(3 mm–13m m) a re u se d most of ten fo r s aw ing cu rve s.

Wider blades are more appropriate for resawing.

Blades vary in hardness. Some inexpensive

blades are made of untempered steel. Others may

have a flame-hardened cutting edge and possibly a

hard-tempered back.

There are several alternative tooth shapes and

blade sets available. See Figure 23-61. A regular

lade has a 0° hook angle and a straight front and

back on each tooth. A hook-tooth blade has about

a 10° positive hook angle. A skip-tooth blade has a

straight tooth front, 0° hook, and a long gullet. Regu-

lar and hook-tooth blades have teeth set alternately

left and right. Skip-tooth blades may have a raker

tooth set. A third set-type is the wavy tooth blade.

Several teeth are set right and then left. They are

separated by a raker tooth. A regular blade works

best for wood only. The hook-tooth cuts well on

most wood, fiberglass, and plastic laminate. The

skip-tooth blade is better for soft woods and plas-

tics. These materials tend to overload and clog other

blades’ gullets.

Blades with carbide teeth are also available.

They offer more precise cuts, increased wear resis-

tance, and the ability to cut composite materials.

Although expensive initially, carbide will outlast

carbon steel blades by as much as 25 to 1, and they

can be resharpened.

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The scroll saw also uses several different blade

types. See Figure23-62. Standard blades cut in only

e direction. They vary in width and number of

TPI. Common widths are 1/8″–1/4″ (3mm–6mm).

Scroll saw blades typically have 7 to 20 TPI. They

have beveled teeth that are alternately set. Normally,

at least three teeth should contact the material at all

times. A 7 TPI blade would be best for soft lumber

with high moisture content. A 20 TPI blade, about

1/32″ (1 mm) wide, is proper for veneer and other

very thin material. The standard blade length is 5″

(127 mm). In addition, a round blade with spiral

teeth is available. You can move the material in any

direction while cutting.

Flat, abrasive-coated blades, 1/4″ (6mm) in

width, are available for sanding inside corners.

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Saw blades should be sharp, free of rust or resin,

and with all teeth intact. Inspect blades frequently

for cracks (especially in the gullets), warp, bluish

color (sign of overheating), and missing or damaged

carbide teeth. Proper maintenance may include

cleaning and sharpening or discarding.

Clean blades with a solvent such as paint thin-

ner. Oven cleaner may be used on more stubborn

resins. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

Rust can be removed with oil and fine steel wool.

Remove the oil and coat the blade with paste wax or

silicone spray before storing it.

Carbide-tipped blades cannot be hand sharp-

ened. Machine grinding with a diamond wheel is

the only method to sharpen a carbide-tipped blade

and is best left to a professional.

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Maintaining stationary power saws properly

will increase their usable life. Inspect, clean, adjust,

and lubricate saws periodically. The machine must

be disconnected from electrical power and locked

out before servicing. For complex repairs, refer to the

owner’s manual.

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Table saws should accurately cut material. If

you check a workpiece and find it out of square that

could indicate a table, miter gauge, or fence problem.

Imagine you are sawing using the miter gauge.

You notice the workpiece pulls away from or feeds

in toward the blade. The miter gauge slot may not be

parallel to the blade. Check this by comparing read-

ings with a dial indicator, Figure 23-63. The dial

hould not move as you slide the miter gauge. (Be

sure the blade is not warped. Install a new blade or

a flat steel plate.) To correct this problem, loosen and

turn the tabletop slightly.

Now imagine you are sawing using the rip

fence. The workpiece pulls away from or rubs tightly

against the fence. This indicates the fence is out of

alignment. If the fence was dropped at some point,

one or more locking mechanism bolts or nuts may

have slipped. Loosen them, move the fence to align

it, and then retighten the bolts or nuts.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 403

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

Make accurate adjustments with a dial indicator.

See Figure 23-64. Without the indicator, make the

me comparisons with a wood block. However, this

method is less accurate.

At times, handwheels become hard to turn. First,

check to see that the lock knobs are loose. If they are,

lubricate screw threads with silicone spray or pow-

dered graphite. Sawdust will stick to oil and may

create a condition worse than before.

There may be times when you may smell rubber

or varnish around a table saw. A rubber scent can

occur when the belt is not tracking properly. The belt

overheats and may harden. Then it can crack and

possibly break. An overheated motor has a definite

varnish-like smell. Motors have a built-in fan to keep

them cool. It can attract sawdust. Sawdust accumula-

tion can obstruct the airflow and cause the motor to

overheat and possibly burn out.

Rust occurs on unpainted steel parts. Remove

the rust with oil and steel wool or fine emery

cloth. Wipe the oil away because it will stain your

wood. Then coat the table and other parts with

paste wax. Wax is less likely to be absorbed into

the wood.

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A radial arm saw has many movable parts. Rust,

lack of lubrication, and excessive torque on levers are

sources of maintenance problems. Check table and

fence alignments before making cuts. Do so with a

square, protractor, T-bevel, or other device. Machine

scales may not be accurate.

The table may have to be leveled so the blade will

be square. Do so by removing the table protector and

wood top. Adjust the leveling bolts as necessary and

reset the locknuts. See Figure23-65.

ometimes the saw kerf is not straight. The saw

assembly movement bearings inside the overarm

could be out of adjustment and allowing side play.

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Adjustment may or may not be possible. If not, the

bearings will need to be replaced.

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With band saws, you must be able to apply the

proper blade tension and adjust the tilt on the upper

wheel for tracking. See Figure23-66. You must also

be a

ble to align the upper and lower blade guides and

set the rear blade guide for different blade widths.

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ob, Figure23-67. It moves the upper wheel toward

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or away from the lower wheel. Most machines have

a scale and marker to note proper tension for a given

blade width. Depending on the age and quality of

the tensioning spring, the scale may or may not be

accurate. The best way to tension a band saw is to

use a tension gauge. If a gauge is not available, try

pushing on the side of the blade. It should deflect no

more than 1/8″–1/4″ (3mm–6mm) under moderate

pressure.

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The tracking adjustment moves the upper wheel

oward or away from the operator. The adjusting

mechanism is typically located on the back of the

upper wheel housing. See Figure 23-68. When a

lade is installed with the proper tension, turn the

upper wheel slowly. Make sure the blade remains

centered on the tire. Turn the wheel at least three or

four revolutions. Adjust the tracking knob or screw

as necessary. When you are confident that the blade

Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 405

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

will not come off the wheel, run the saw for 30–60

seconds to ensure that the blade reaches its final

resting position.

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Guides may be hardened pieces of steel, ceramic,

omposite material, or ball bearings on each side of

the blade. See Figure23-69. Fitting a blade between

hese guides is critical. Slip a piece of paper or tape

between the blade and each side guide. If it moves

freely, the guides have proper side clearance.

The teeth on the blade must never touch the

hardened guides or bearings. If this happens, the

blade loses its set. It may pinch in the kerf, heat up,

and burn the material being cut. The guides should

be located just behind the blade gullet.

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The guide behind the blade is called the thrust

bea

ring. A thrust bearing is a ball bearing or disk

mounted directly behind the blade. It supports the

blade while sawing and is part of the blade-guide

assembly. There should be a 0.004″ (0.1mm) space

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between it and the back of the blade. This adjustment

may be made by moving the guide. Like the side

guides, use a piece of paper to set the proper distance.

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Band saw blades should be coiled for storage.

hey may be hung or boxed easily when coiled into

a loop.

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Scroll saws are maintained like other machines.

Be sure to:

• Select the proper blade guide for the blade

bei

ng used. It guides the blade and prevents

tooth damage.

• Set the tension sleeve or rear-tension device as

escribed earlier.

• Check the oil level periodically in the housing

nder the saw table. Oil prevents wear and heat

buildup.

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• Add a small amount of oil or graphite in the

tension sleeve or rocker pins. This will prevent

excessive wear.

Some scroll saws have an air pump, hose, and

nozzle. This assembly blows off chips to keep the

cutting line visible while sawing. Check the airflow

periodically because the pump could get damaged

or the hose could be loose or broken.

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Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 407

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

4VNNBSZ

• Sawing is a fundamental process in cabinet-

making. Stationary power saws cut wood and

composite materials to component sizes.

• Generally speaking, select the proper saw blade

or efficient operation. Selecting the wrong

blade may result in a splintered surface or

burned edge.

• Use saws with circular blades to make accurate

traight-line cuts. The diameter of the blade

helps keep the cut straight.

• Stationary power saws that use a circular blade

nclude the tilting-arbor table saw, tilting table

saw, horizontal and vertical panel saw, beam

saw, and radial arm saw.

• The major components of a tilting-arbor table

w are a horizontal table on a machine frame,

circular blade that extends up through a table

insert, tilting arbor that adjusts the blade angle

from 0° to 45°, and a motor.

• Use a rip fence, miter gauge, sliding table, or

igs and accessories to guide material past the

blade on a table saw.

• Blade guards keep hands away from the blade

nd help control sawdust.

• Circular saw blades are categorized by tooth

esign, kerf width, arbor hole size, and other

features.

• Table saw setup includes deciding whether to

se the rip fence or miter gauge, setting the

blade height, and squaring the blade.

• Table saws can be used for ripping, crosscut-

ing, beveling, mitering, resawing, cutting

dados, compound mitering, shaping, tapering,

and joint making.

• Use a panel saw to cut full-size sheets.

orizontal and vertical panel saws are

available.

• Radial arm saws are used primarily for sawing

tock to length. The saw blade, blade guard,

and motor are above the table.

• The radial arm saw can be used for crosscut-

ing, mitering, kerfing, and beveling.

• Band saws and scroll saws are used to cut

cur

ved parts.

• Relief cuts allow waste material to break loose

a curved workpiece is sawed.

• A band saw consists of a continuous, thin steel

lade that travels on two wheels. The blade is

exposed where it passes through the table.

• Band saws are used for curved-line sawing,

traight-line sawing, ripping narrow strips,

U-shaped cutting, beveling, sawing multiple

parts to size, and resawing.

• Plan your sawing sequence before starting the

and saw. Make short and relief cuts first,

determine whether the workpiece will be to the

left or right of the blade, and saw on the waste

side.

• Scroll saws cut small radius curves. They are

sed to make outside cuts and interior cuts,

and for beveling. Parts include a table, hold-

down, blade clamps, blower nozzle, and a

guard.

• Generally speaking, select the proper saw blade

or efficient operation. Selecting the wrong

blade may result in a splintered surface or

burned edge.

• Choose a blade based on the sawing operation

be performed.

• Circular blades are used on table saws, radial

rm saws, power miter saws, and various sta-

tionary power saws.

• A band saw consists of a continuous, thin steel

lade with teeth on one edge.

• To saw efficiently, blades must be sharp.

ointing, setting, cleaning, and filing (grinding)

are all steps in sharpening.

• Some blades can be hand sharpened. However,

t is best to have blades sharpened by a profes-

sional with the appropriate tools.

• Maintaining your machinery is important for

chieving quality results. Inspect, clean, adjust,

and lubricate them periodically.

5FTU:PVS,OPXMFEHF

Answer the following questions using the information

provided in this chapter.

1. List two stationary saws you might choose for

straight-line cuts.

2. True or False? Saws used to cut curves can also

cut a straight line, if a straightedge or fence is

used.

3. The _____ of a circular saw blade helps keep

the cut straight.

408 Section 4 Machining Processes

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

4. Name four tools that can be used to guide

material past the blade on a table saw.

5. What table saw safety feature helps prevent

material from being thrown back toward the

operator?

6. Name five ways to categorize circular saw

blades.

7. Which direction do you turn the table saw

arbor nut to loosen it?

8. For cuts other than bevels, the blade must be at

_____ to the table.

A. 20°

B. 45°

C. 90°

D. 180°

9. Cutting wood or plywood along the grain is

known as _____.

A. ripping

B. crosscutting

C. beveling

D. resawing

10. Cutting through wood or plywood across the

face grain is known as _____.

A. ripping

B. crosscutting

C. beveling

D. resawing

11. Name two methods for cutting duplicate work-

pieces to equal lengths on a table saw.

12. On a tilting-arbor table saw, the _____ is tilted

for beveling.

13. When is resawing on the table saw a one-pass

operation?

14. What is a scoring blade?

15. What radial arm saw adjustment does the ele-

vation crank perform?

A. Raises or lowers the blade.

B. Positions the blade for a miter cut.

C. Positions the blade for ripping in the in-rip

mode.

D. Positions the blade for beveling.

16. The radial arm saw is well suited for _____

lumber and wood products.

17. Both band saws and scroll saws have _____

blades that allow the saws to cut curves.

18. To saw a workpiece with sharp inside or out-

side curves that change direction, _____ are

necessary.

19. Adjusting the top wheel on a band saw allows

the operator to control _____.

A. blade tension

B. alignment

C. Both A and B.

D. None of the above.

20. Marquetry and inlay can be cut using a(n)

_____ saw, which has a thin, narrow blade.

21. Describe how to cut pockets on a scroll saw.

22. List four important blade specifications.

23. _____ angle refers to the angle at which the

front edge of the tooth contacts the material.

24. True or False? Carbide-tipped blades can be

hand sharpened.

25. List four maintenance operations that, when

done periodically, will increase the usable life

of saw blades.

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1. The typical saw motor in the United States runs

at 3450 rpm. Verify this with the nameplate on

the motor of your table saw. Using this infor-

mation and the diameter of your saw blade, cal-

culate the rotational rim speed of your blade.

The following formula can be used:

Blade dia. (″) × 3.14

= rim speed in miles per hour (mph)

rpm × 60

5280

How many miles per hour are the teeth travel-

ling? Given a blade with 60 teeth, how many

times per second does the same tooth pass

through the material? Share your calculations

with your instructor.

2. Obtain the four different circular saw blade

types described in this chapter. Install each in a

table saw, one at a time, and crosscut a piece of

solid stock at partial depth. Compare the cut

profiles as well as the quality of each cut. Share

your observations with your instructor.

3. The inclusion of flesh-sensing technology has

created a great debate within the industry

about whether or not this should be required

on all table saws. Using the Internet as a

resource, research the debate. Prepare a written

argument stating whether you are for or

against requiring table saws be equipped with

this technology. Share your report with your

class.

$PQZSJHIU(PPEIFBSU8JMMDPY$P*OD

Chapter 23 Sawing with Stationary Power Machines 409

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